photo of sfinska steps with bronze fisherman

Durres Albania Best Guide

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Introduction

Where is Durres Albania

Durres is located 45 km west of Tirana the capital. Drive time is 40 – 60 min (or more depending on traffic and construction) from Tirana.

Map of Albania

map of Albania

Map of Durres Albania

street map of centre to beach of Durres

History of Durres Albania

Durres was founded by the Greeks (from Corinth and Corcyra) in the 7th century BCE and was called Epidamnus at the time. It was seized by the Ilyrians (a group of Indo-European-speaking peoples who lived in the western Balkan Peninsula) in 812 BCE. Later the Romans made it their port calling it Dyrrhachium. In the 4th century CE, it became the capital of a Roman province. There are a number of Roman ruins from 2nd to 4th centuries CE visible today in the area.
Continuing into the Byzantine era Durres served as an important port and military stronghold. Following the Byzantine era it was occupied by the Venetians and then the Ottomans. The Ottomans (Turks) were defeated in the First Balkan War 1912-13. Durres was then named the capital of an independent Albania. But not for long.
It was occupied by the Austrians, then the Italians who withdrew in 1920.
During the WWII the Fascists from Italy invaded. Near the end of the war it was bombed by the Germans, destroying much of the port facilities. Communists ruled the country from 1944 to 1991.
It was declared an aetheist country and many religious buildings were destroyed or re-purposed. Democracy prevailed from 1991.

When to visit Durres Albania

We visited in October when the weather was pleasant and mainly sunny with temperatures in the low to mid 20s. Winter can be very cool and rainy. Spring is also a good time. Crowds are much thinner during the shoulder seasons. Summer sees many Albanians and tourists. The weather is hot. Our taxi driver told us in the beach areas walkers move faster than cars.

Is it worth visiting Durres

Durres has a lengthy history, so lots of culture and interesting sites. The beach strip is over 15 km in length. There are many vacation rentals and great restaurants and bars. What’s not to like!

What you need to know about Durres

There is a large beach town dimension. Many hotels, vacation rentals, restaurants and bars in the Durres beach area – all along the 15m stretch of beach. It is very crowded in the summer. Traffic then is very slow. Nevertheless a lively beach environment. The centre of the city is a short taxi or bus ride from the beach. Italian food is king, next to seafood, in most restaurants. Pizza everywhere. We found tourist infrastructure to be weak. You are mostly on your own.
We thought that the country was just opening to tourism so it was still under the radar. Wrong! We were told that tourists numbered in the millions on an annual basis. Numbers between 6-13 million were quoted. Apparently half of the tourists were in fact Albanians returning for a visit. There are 2.5 million Albanians living in the country. 10.5 million live outside Albania.
Albania is on the move – prices rising, construction everywhere. Best to visit soon.

How big is Durres Albania

The population is about 122,000. Durres is the oldest city in Albania and the 2nd largest. It is also the largest port in Albania with 4 terminals for passenger ferries, containers, cargo and bulk cargo.

Origin of the name Durres

Over time, Dyrrhachium evolved into modern names like Durazzo (Italian) and Durrës (Albanian)

How safe is Durres Albania

We had no concerns about our personal safety walking in the city or along the promenade by the beach, even late at night. One of our taxi drivers told us that you could pull out your wallet and openly count your money. He said no one would pay any attention. We did not try this and used normal caution.

Things to do in Durres Albania

We were never at a loss for things to do and see in Durres Albania for the two weeks we stayed. Here are some of the things we did on our own. Most were easily walkable.

Prefer a guided walking tour ?

Book your walking tour of Durres HERE while still available

Roman Amphitheatre

photo of roman amphitheatre with inset of original plan

AKA Durres Amphitheatre. This is the number one attraction in Durres. The Amphitheatre was built in the 2nd century CE and could hold upwards of 20,000 at the time. It is the largest Roman ruin in the Balkans we were told. Rediscovered in 1966 it has been undergoing a slow restoration. Funding has been limited in this once poorest European country. Inside there are interesting frescoes. Location is next to the new mosque in the historical centre. Cost 300 lek. On Rruga Kalese.

Venetian Tower

photo of venetian tower with inset of original plan

Built atop the remains of the Byzantine tower around the 15th century, the Venetian Tower was fortified with cannons to protect the city. It was the cornerstone of an ancient walled compound, parts of the wall easily seen in the historical centre. You can walk to the top of the tower for a photo op of the area. It is now an interpretive centre and is free to enter. Location just north of the port side end of the Vollga Promenade. The Durres Castle, no longer standing, was within the walls.

Gate to Amphitheatre

photo of restored gate to the roman amphitheatre

The restored entrance of the gate to the Amphitheatre. Also a portion of the Venetian wall.

National Archeological Museum

photo of national archeological museum

This is the largest archeological museum in Albania. It was closed for renovations when we visited. Entry fee is included with the Amphitheatre admission. 32 Rruga Taulantia

Sfinksi aka Cape Square

photo of sfinska steps with bronze fisherman

Located at the non-port end of the Vollga Promenade. It is a great place to relax, contemplate the sea, take pics of the sunset, even swim. The bronze of the fisherman in the foreground recognizes the marine history of Durres Albania and is a tribute to local fishermen.

Shop high end in Durres Albania

photo of luxury shopping street

Yes there is luxury shopping in Duress Albania – just wander along Bulevardi Epidamn in the historical centre. All the brands are there – Versace, Girogio Armani and more.

Church of Saint George

pic of church of Saint George

Church of Saint George – an Orthodox church. Most churches, and religious buildings were destroyed during the Communist era (1946-1991). So most religious buildings have been built in the last 25 years. It was reconstructed in 1994-7. The church is on the way if you are walking uphill to King Zog’s Villa

Church of Apostle Paul and Saint Asteios

pic of Church of Apostle Paul and Saint Asteiosic
photo courtesy Vitalij Cernysiov

Christianity in Durres dates back to the 1st century CE.  The first to preach Christianity in this area was Apostle Paul in that century. Originally constructed in the 10th century and destroyed during the communist era. The church we see today was reconstructed in 1994-2002. Located behind the Venetian Tower.

King Zog’s Villa

Pic of King Zog's villa

King Zog first served as Albania’s Prime Minister (1922–1924), then as president (1925–1928), and finally as self-proclaimed King (1928–1939). This villa atop the largest hill in Durres was built in 1937 and was his summer home. He fled into exile in 1939 and never returned. The communists took over in 1941 and used the villa as a meeting hall, hosting such leaders as Nikita Khrushchev and Jimmy Carter on official visits. Following the communist era the villa fell into disrepair where it is today. You can visit inside for 3-5 € but not worth it. We walked uphill from the Vollga Promenade – took 20 min at a good pace.

View Durres from above

view from King Zog's villa overlooking Durres

For a photo op go the the edge of the road in front of King Zog’s Villa

Book your walking tour of Durres HERE while still available

Grand Mosque of Durres

photo of the Grand Mosque of Durres

The Grand Mosque of Durres was commissioned by King Zog I in 1931 and built on the site of an older Ottoman building. At the time it was the largest mosque in Albania. Destroyed in the communist era it was restored and opened in 1993. Facing the entrance to the Amphitheatre it is located on the other side.

City Hall of Durres Albania

pic of the city hall of Durres

Located in Sheshi Liria (Liberty Square) in the heart of Durres

Sheshi Liria (Liberty Square)

pic of the main square of  Durres

This is the hub for much cultural and civic activity. The square has marble stone paving, palm trees, fountains and benches. In the background is a performing arts theatre.

Roman Forum and Baths

photo of the ancient Corinthian columns and the roman baths

Just north of the Town Square are the ruins of a Roman Forum and Baths dating from the 6th to 9th Century CE (Byzantine era). The remains of Corinthian columns can be seen. The flat tiles in the foreground are evidence of the Roman Baths.

Stroll along the Vollga Promenade

The Vollga Promenade is north of the port and is 1.5 km in length. The park is concrete and green space. There are a number of commemorative statues as well as bars and restaurants. A wonderful place to relax by the water.

Durres Beach

South of the port lies Durres Beach. This is a 15km stretch of sandy beach and shallow water. There are many hotels, vacation rentals, restaurants and bars. It is THE place to go in the summer for many from the Tirana area. It is a tourist mecca from home and abroad. Wall to wall hotels, wall to wall people. Best to travel in the shoulder seasons.

Durres Beach Promenade

The promenade extends for just over 3.5km along the beachfront. There is no shortage of places to eat and drink seaside.

Take a day trip to and tour of Tirana

pic of the face of Skanderberg designed into the building

We took a taxi to Tirana, capital of Albania. Then we took a walking tour. Do you see a face in this building? Read about this and more about our trip to Tirana in a future blog.

Book your walking tour of Tirana HERE while still available

Take a day trip to Berat

photo of old houses i Berat

We took a day tip to the historic city of Berat. Read more about the City of 1000 windows in a future blog.

Book your day trip to Berat HERE before places are gone

Other Interesting day trips

Kruja

The historic town is famous for its castle. The old bazaar is a great place to find traditional crafts and souvenirs.

Cape of Rodon

This area offers beautiful landscapes, a 15th-century castle, and sandy beaches. It’s a great spot for hiking and photography.

Conclusion

We spent 2 weeks in Durres Albania and explored some of the country. Albania has it all – mountains, forests, valleys, beaches and more. Corfu Greece is a short fast ferry ride away. Costs in Durres were modest and cheaper than almost anywhere else in Europe. We suggest you go soon before big changes come.

How to get to Durres Albania

Air

There is no airport (yet) in Durres. The nearest Airport is in Tirana. An alternative is to fly to Corfu Greece

pic of British aiways plane

Bus

Take a bus from the Mother Teresa International Airport (Tirana). Cost about 10 € Takes about 35-40 min

pic of Albanian highway bus
Coach bus in a city street

Taxi

Take a taxi from the Tirana airport. Cost is 2400 LEK or 25€ Travel time 20-5 min.

pic of Albanian electric taxi

From Corfu

Take a ferry to Saranda cost 18€, 35-40 min. then take a taxi from Saranda to Durres, cost 15,000 LEK, 150 €. Time 3 hours. A bus takes 4-5 hours. cost is 1500-1700 lek, 16 – 18 € We chose a taxi, door to door.

pic of fast ferry between Old Town Corfu and Albania
Fast ferry between Albania and Old Town Corfu

From Italy

Regular ferry service is available between Durres and Bari Italy. Ferries are also available to Durres from the ports of Anacona and Trieste in Italy. The ferry from Bari takes about 10 hours. Cost is 45 € and up.

photo of ferry boat between Bari Italy and Durres

Plan your trip

Day 1 of 2

9am arrive by bus or taxi from Tirana
take a tour of historical district
lunch along the Vollga Promenade
stroll the Vollga Promenade to Sfinska
relax by/on the steps
take a taxi to Durres beach area
stroll the Beach Promenade
take a taxi to Vertigo Bar Restaurant for dinner and sunset
return to hotel

Day 2 of 2

8am breakfast
9am take a prearranged tour to Berat
explore old Berat castle
late lunch in new Berat
Stop at Patisserie Tori for a monblan
continue your tour to Cobo Winery for a wine tasting.
return to Durres for dinner at the Fisherman’s Net (try the homemade raki after dinner)
overnight in hotel for morning return to Tirana

Where to Eat in Durres Albania

There is no shortage of good restaurants in Durres.Be sure to try local Albanian dishes like tavë kosi (a baked lamb and rice dish) and byrek (a savory pastry). Here are a few of our recommendations. Most medium sized (and up) restaurants take credit cards. The smaller ones usually want cash.

Vertigo Bar Restaurant

It has a rooftop and very very tasty seafood. If you arrive just before sunset the rooftop is great for viewing. Prices are moderate . On Rruga Currila across from the Aragosta hotel.

Saly Restaurant

The food here is super good, especially if you love raw fish. It is fresh,very tasty and well served. Also very nice atmosphere. Prices are moderate+. Located in the Saly Hotel.

Palace Hotel and Spa Restaurant

A very nice restaurant, nice soft live music and atmosphere. Dine inside or outside overlooking pool and sea. A bit pricey but elegant.

Royal G Hotel and Spa Restaurant

There is a very nice breakfast/buffet or order a la carte. Good also for lunch and dinner. Can be crowded in the evening (a good sign) because of live music (pop, rock, traditional balkan music and more). Yes you can dance! Prices vary.

Amara Hotel and Spa Restaurant

Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you go for breakfast try their petulla – it’s an Albanian donut- yummy! Nice atmosphere in the evening with live music. Prices moderate.

L’Amuse Restaurant

Serves lunch and dinner – sushi, steak, seafood. Great cocktails. Very good ratings. Pricey.
Location Rruga Pavarësia Apollonia.

Cosmo Hotel Restaurant

Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Good food, good atmosphere. Best for dinner. Prices moderate.

Hotel Edart Restaurant

Serves B L D. We had a nice breakfast here. Prices moderate.

Fisherman’s Net

by Durres Beach close to the port. this was the only restaurant we went to twice in 2 weeks. Great seafood. We had the grilled calamari and it was tasty and not chewy. Try the homemade raki after dinner (only 200 lek). Prices moderate.

Pizzeria and Cocina de Mexico

Pic of Pizzeria and Cocina de Mexico restaurant

Mexican-Italian fusion? Whaaaat! Just off the Vollga Promenade. We did not try this so you are on your own.

Hotel Virginia Restaurant

The pizza here was the best we had in Durres. Budget prices. Located 1 block from the Palace Hotel and Spa walking away from the port.

Where to stay in Durres Albania

We chose to stay in an Airbnb. Here is where we were by Durres Beach. 2 min from the beach and 2 small supermarkets within a block and a half. Many bars and restaurants in the area.
There are many airbnb and vacation rentals. Book early if you are going in the summer.

There are many hotels in Durres. Some are mentioned above with the restaurants. You can choose stays from our link below.

Book your hotel HERE before the best deals are gone

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