Tirana Albania – Spend a Day

Introduction

We were spending a couple of weeks in Durres and decided to spend a day in Tirana Albania. We chose a guided tour of Tirana. This blog is about our experience of a day in Tirana Albania.

Where is it

Tirana, the capital of Albania is located in the centre of the country about 30 km east of the Adriatic Sea. It is along the Ishm River near the end of a fertile plain, enclosed by hills with Dajti mountain visible in the east.

Map of Albania showing Tirana

History of Tirana Albania

Modern Tirana was founded in 1614 by a local Ottoman ruler. He established a mosque, a bakery and a hamam (today’s Turkish bath). The town grew slowly until 1912. That’s when the Ottoman Empire was at war elsewhere. The people feared that Serbia and Greece would permanently take their territory, so a group of influential Albanians under the leadership of Ismail Qemali proclaimed Albanian independence from the Empire.
In 1920 Tirana was proclaimed the temporary capital of Albania. It became the permanent capital on December 31, 1925.

Fascists (Italy) invaded Albania in 1939. Following WWII and defeat of the Fascists it became a communist state with the assistance of Russia and China. This lasted from 1944-1991 when student protests resulted in a democracy.

What to know about Tirana

The currency is called the Lek (1 € = 96.7 Lek). Nod your head for no and shake your head for yes. Going for an evening walk is part of the culture. Most Tirana taxis and buses are electric. Good wifi everywhere.

When is the best time to visit

Can be cold and rainy in January (highs 7-12C). April to mid June and mid September to November weather is pleasant, high teens to mid 20s and mostly sunny. Tirana is one of the sunniest capitals in Europe with over 300 days of sunshine. Summer is hot (31C+) and dry (and crowded). We travelled in October and the weather was perfect – not too hot, dry and sunny.

Is Tirana worth visiting

Yes, definitely. Even though we only spent a day (and a night) we saw the potential for a longer visit. Costs are more moderate compared with most if not all of Europe. So great value. Many delicious food and drink options. Raki is the national drink. Lots of history and culture. Very walkable city.

Is Tirana Albania safe

We felt no concerns about our personal safety wherever we went in Tirana, or anywhere else in Albania. One taxi driver told us you could stand in the street counting your money and no one would notice. We didn’t try this however. Just use normal cautions as you would anywhere.

How big is it

Population of metro Tirana is about 600,000. Population of Albania is 2.4 million. 10 million Albanians live abroad. We heard varied estimates of annual tourist visits 6-12 million, 50% of which are Albanians returning for vacation and family visits.

Things to see and do in Tirana Albania

Tourist Information Office

Rruga Ded Gjo Luli near the corner with Bulevardi Zogu I across the street from the National Historical Museum. Maps and brochures of the city. We found the staff there to be very helpful with good English skills.

Tour of Tirana Albania

There are a no. of options – bus tour, guided walking tour, free guided walking tour, or online walking tour.

Book your walking tour HERE before it sells out

Clock Tower

This clock tower was completed in 1822. It was built by Bey Mollaj who had first built the mosque which is next to this structure. Climb the stairs inside for a great view of Skanderbeg Square. Located at the edge of Skanderbeg Square. Often serves as a people meeting place since it is so prominent.

Et’hem Bey Mosque

Construction was started in late 18th century by Tirana governor Molla Bey. His son Et’hem Bey completed the mosque after his father’s death. It is Tirana’s most preserved relic from 500 years of Ottoman rule.
We saw beautiful frescoes inside and out of verdant valleys, rushing rivers, bridges and such scenes. Located in Skanderbeg Square.

Skanderbeg statue in Tirana Albania

He is a pivotal figure in Albanian history, celebrated for his resistance against the Ottoman Empire. Once a hostage under Ottoman rule he rose to fight against them in 1443 and declared Albania independence which did not last. His original name was Skander (translation is Alexander). He was made a ‘beg’ in 1438, a mark of nobility and hence the name Skanderbeg. He is considered a national hero in Albania.

Face in a building

This building overlooking Skanderbeg Square contains a face. Yes it is the face of Skanderbeg. We noticed a number of new buildings contained a face of a notable in their design.

Food truck by the square

This food truck by Skanderbeg Square served hot dogs and other tasty items.

The pigeon guy

This man and his wife came to the square each day with food for the pigeons. For a modest tip one could have their photo taken with him and the pigeons. We did not see a cleanup crew handy.

Intercontinental Hotels of Tirana Albania

Both buildings belong to the Intercontinental Hotel chain. The smaller white building was the first one and was at the time the tallest building in Tirana. The yellow building also an IC hotel is now the tallest. Other buildings will soon get that title. Seen from Skanderbeg Square.

Traditional dancer

This young woman and her partner (seen behind). they were part of a traditional dance troop. They were promoting their event in the square.

Modern buildings

There is a building boom now in Tirana. Construction is everywhere. This is a country on the rise. Many buildings have unique designs. The country is moving fast, prices are rising, tourism is beginning to boom. Better get here soon to take advantage of low prices.

National Historical Museum

The exterior features this mosaic of late Albanian Socialist Realism.
Installed in 1981, it showcases some of the important milestones of the country’s history, spanning from antiquity to the Communist era. Several renowned artists of the time created this mural.
The Museum of National History presents the total interesting history of Albania. It is the most important museum in Albania. The documented history is in 8 sections – Antiquity, Middle Ages, Renaissance, Independence, National Liberation anti-Fascism War, Communist Terror and Mother Teresa.
Allow 2-3 hours for a complete visit. Admission 300 Lek (free on most national holidays). Located in Skanderbeg Square.

Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral

The original cathedral was destroyed to make way for the Palace of Culture, and the Orthodox Church was essentially extinguished. The communist regime under Enver Hoxha declared Albania the world’s first atheist state, completely banning all forms of religious practice. Clergy were imprisoned or executed, and church property was confiscated and destroyed or repurposed.
The original cathedral was destroyed to make way for the Palace of Culture. The church was rebuilt following the establishment of democracy in 1991. It opened in 2014. We were told it has occasionally held up to 2500 people.

House of Leaves – site of surveillance and torture

The building seen through the trees (look closely) is the former headquarters of the communist-era secret police and surveillance service, and it is strongly associated with the regime’s brutal repression.
It was called the House of Leaves: A Site of Secret Surveillance and Torture.
When we went inside we had shivers thinking about all the past activity.
It now serves as the Museum of Secret Surveillance. Located across the street from the Cathedral.

Pyramid of Tirana

The Pyramid of Tirana, a 21 metre-high (70ft) concrete cone in Tirana , opened in 1988 as a museum on the life of former leader Enver Hoxha, who ran a reclusive communist state for four decades until his death in 1985. It was originally destined to be his tomb but its use was nixed by the family. Hoxha wanted this monument to be as Lenin’s tomb in Moscow. 877 steps in total on all sides. 144 to the top on one side. We did not climb it.
It is primarily used as the TUMO Center Tirana, a youth technology and creative center. It also houses cafes, start-up offices, and public spaces. You can climb it for a great view and get some exercise. Good place to see the sunset.

Mon Cherie

Mon Cherie is a chain of ‘Starbucks’ like coffee shops. A big difference is that they also serve alcohol. There are no Starbucks or McDonalds in Albania. We saw Mon Cherie cafes everywhere and enjoyed their coffee and sandwiches from time to time.

Free wifi

There is free wifi throughout Tirana – parks, museums, public spaces, cafes, bars, restaurants. You are connected there!

St Paul’s Cathedral and Mother Teresa

This is St. Paul’s Cathedral. It is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Tirana. Mother Teresa was born in Skopje, Albania (1910) before Skopje became part of Serbia in 1913. Her family moved to Tirana when she was 6.
She died in India Sept 5 1997, 3 days after Princess Diana was killed.
The name of the airport here is Tirana International Aiport Nene Tereza.

Great Mosque of Tirana Albania

The Great Mosque of Tirana is the largest mosque in the Balkans. It is of classical Ottoman design. Each of the 4 minarets are 50m high. This mosque can accommodate 10,000 worshipers – 8,000 inside and 2,000 outside. Make this a stop to explore. It is located on Namazgah Street.

Parliament of Albania

The Albanian Parliament is the highest representative and lawmaking body in the Republic of Albania. Its 140 representatives are elected for a 4 year term. The President is the Head of State and must be an Albanian citizen, over 40 and has resided in the country for at least the last 10 years. The candidate must be proposed to the Assembly by at least 20 MPs. Voting is by secret ballot with no debate by the Assembly and can take up to 5 rounds depending on the no. of candidates.
The Parliament is located adjacent to the Great Mosque.
The building attached on the right is the Academy of Sciences of Albania.

Tirana Castle

This is the remaining wall of the Tirana Castle. It is the only castle found in the city centre. The castle is located where former main east–west and north–south roads crossed. It formed the heart of the town as it was then. The castle history dates back prior to 1300.
Along this section there is an entrance to the castle ruins. Inside are small markets and some restaurants.

Bunkers

The communist leader, Enver Hoxha, ordered the construction of over 173,000 bunkers across the country. This was a massive undertaking and contributed to the country’s poverty.
While many are now being repurposed into museums, bars, and restaurants, other bunkers can be found in various locations, including roadside checkpoints. This one contained an art display.

Independence Memorial

Located in Rinia Park it was erected in 2012, the 100th anniversary of the independence of Albania. The double headed eagle from the flag is shown on the right panel. The left panel contains a facsimile of the Declaration of Independence and the signatures and names of the participants.
It is interesting to note that Mother Teresa’s parents were both prominent in the Albanian movement for independence.

Albanian Patriotism

This is how Albanians show their patriotism by mimicking the double headed eagle on the flag – hooking thumbs with fingers spread.

Indoor shopping mall

Just across from the castle wall we discovered a large modern shopping mall. 8 levels of a mix of up-to-date and upscale stores and restaurants including a supermarket.
(note – 1st level is the ground floor).

Dajti cable car

This is one of the most popular tourist activities in Tirana (actually it is just outside Tirana). Great views on a clear day overlooking Tirana and surrounding area. Cost €14 for an adult return trip. Take the Porcelan bus (blue) from the clock tower by Skanderbeg Square. Cost 40 Lek (€0.5), takes 30 min. Taxi costs 700-1,000 Lek. Go with Merr taxi at a special rate of 650 Lek. Takes 15 min.

New Bazaar

Aka Pazari i Ri. This is one of the oldest markets in Tirana and a great place to browse. If you are looking for souvenirs you will find them here. Also pottery, fruit, carpets and antiques. Allow time to wander. Located near the intersection of Rruga Hoxha Tahsim and Rruga Tefta Tashko-Koço.

Amadeus Palace

Here is one site you will only see but not visit. It is outside Tirana on the highway to Durres and is referred to as the ‘Empty Hotel’. Originally intended to be a luxury five-star hotel and casino, but due to various legal and economic reasons, it has never fully opened to guests. It features gold plated domes and marble columns.

Conclusion

We took a day trip to Tirana from Durres. Signed up for a guided walking tour and wandered on our own. Tirana is worth spending 2 or 3 days and we wished we had done so. We saw the basics but there is so much more. Oh well, next time!

How to get to Tirana Albania

By Air

Most visitors will come by air to Tirana International Airport Nene Tereza. Then a taxi or bus into the centre of Tirana. There are direct flights from most major cities in Europe. Since we were coming from North America we connected conveniently with British Airways in London.

From Corfu Greece

Take a ferry to Saranda cost €18, 35-40 min. then take a taxi from Saranda to Tirana, cost €180-200. Time 3.5-4.5 hours. A bus takes 5-5.5 hours. cost is €10-14. Traffic and the time of day influence the time to Tirana.

From Italy

Regular ferry service is available between Durres and Bari Italy. Ferries are also available to Durres from the ports of Anacona and Trieste in Italy. The ferry from Bari takes about 10 hours. Cost is €45 and up.
Once in Durres take a bus or taxi to Tirana. Taxi is €25, 30-40min. Bus is €3, 90min.

Where to eat in Tirana Albania

We only spent a short time in Tirana, on arrival and then a day trip from Durres. The one restaurant where we ate twice and would recommend is Goloza Pizzeria – Ristorante. Prices very moderate.
Tirana is know as a foodie paradise. There are many restaurants serving traditional Albanian cuisine. Also cuisine from around the world is available. Italian is the dominant cuisine however. Located in Galleria shopping centre on Rruga e Barrikadav.

Where to stay in Tirana Albania

For our one night stay we chose and can highly recommend the small boutique Hotel Oresti Center Tirana . This 2nd floor hotel is new and includes a very good hot breakfast. The staff is outstanding and can provide good local tourist information. Great location and prices.

Book your accommodation HERE while still available

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