Spend a Day in Aix en Provence France
How to Spend a Day in Aix en Provence France
While spending several weeks in Toulon France we took a day trip to Aix en Provence aka Aix-en-Provence. We took an express bus from Toulon, arriving in Aix en Provence, France in less than 1 hour. This blog offers suggestions on how to spend a day in Aix en Provence based on our personal experience. Pronunciation of ‘Aix’ is simply ‘X’ – so phonetically ‘X en Provence’.
History of Aix en Provence France
While the area was originally settled, the town itself was created in 122 BCE by the Roman Consul Caius Sextius Calvinus. The name of the new town was Aquae Sextiae, named after him meaning the ‘waters of Sextius’. There are thermal springs in the town which have become famous over the years. This prominent Roman city was subsequently successfully invaded and occupied by a number of Barbarian civilizations. This led to its decline in importance for almost 1,000 years.
The Counts of Provence made the city, now named Aix, the capital of Provence in 1189. The town expanded and became prosperous with a castle and protective walls over the next several hundred years despite periods of unrest and invasions, not the least of which was the French Revolution 1789-94.
From the 16th to 18th centuries the nobility built many fine mansions in Aix, some of which remain today.
The city which had been called Aix for over 1,000 years officially became Aix-en-Provence in 1932.
Where is Aix en Provence
When to Visit Aix en Provence France
The best time to visit is spring and fall when the weather is moderate. The temperature is much higher in the summer and it can be unpleasantly hot. We decided to spend a day in Aix en Provence France at the end of October and the weather was perfect.
How big is Aix en Provence France
The population of Aix en Provence is about 145,000. We explored only the Old Town on our visit. The Old Town was totally walkable.
Is Aix en Provence Worth Visiting
Yes, you can easily spend a day in Aix en Provence France. It has a small, charming and walkable Old Town with a cultural heritage, great cafes, interesting museums and colourful outdoor markets. It is close to Marseille, Avignon, Nice and Toulon. Easily reachable from Paris on the TGV.
How to Spend a Day in Aix en Provence France
While a visitor can easily spend several days, here is how we managed to spend a day in Aix en Provence France. Some best things to do.
Tourist Information Centre
One of the very first things to do to spend a day in Aix en Provence is to visit the Tourist Information Centre. It is located at 300 avenue Giuseppe Verdi – hours are 8:30 am to 6:00 pm daily, closed Sunday. We found the staff most helpful with maps and tours available. We chose a self guided tour and easily followed most of the points of interest in the Old Town.
Book your Tour of Aix en Provence here
City Pass
There is a Tourist City Pass available from the Information Centre and online. The pass covers local public transportation, tours and entrances to museums and attractions. It is available for 1, 2 and 3 days at costs from 29, 39 and 49 euros. We chose not to purchase a one day pass since our time was limited.
La Rotonde
La Rotonde is the largest fountain in Aix en Provence. Located across from the Tourist Office. The sculpture facing the street, Cours Mirabeau, recognizes the 3 representatives from the largest 3 cities of Provence: justice (Aix), arts (Avignon) and agriculture (Marseille). It was created in 1860 and features 12 lions, 6 swans and children riding dolphins. We learned that Aix en Provence is the city of 1000 fountains.
Cours Mirabeau Market
We found that one of the best ways to spend a day in Aix en Provence was to wander through the Cours Mirabeau market. Cours Mirabeau was once a carriage way in the city of Aix en Provence. The street dates to 1649. The crossroads to Avignon in the north and Marseille in the south occurred here.
Saint-Saveur Cathedral
This cathedral is built on the site of the 1st-century Roman forum of Aix and has been renovated through the years. This national monument of France has naves of different styles (Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque) which are flanked by an octagonal baptistery (6th century).
In the photo of the Altar of the Aygosi family, the nobleman Urbain Aygosi is seen on the left. The altar was finished in 1470. This stone altar, originally installed in the church of the Carmelites in Aix, was placed in the cathedral in 1823. We took note of the unusual hexagonal tower.
City Hall of Aix en Provence France
This is the City Hall (L’Hôtel de Ville) of Aix en Provence France. It was built in 1670 and houses the mayor’s office and civil services. Weddings are often held here. We watched briefly as Christmas decorations were being put in place.
Place de L’Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)
We studied the fountain in the middle of Place de L’Hotel de Ville. It was built in 1755. The Roman column was donated to the city by a local group in 1626; it was finally installed on completion, complete with mascarons spouting water. In architecture and the decorative arts, a mascaron ornament is a face, usually human, usually frightening, whose alleged function was originally to frighten away evil spirits.
There is a flower market in this square several times a week.
Stop for a Gelato
When you spend a day in Aix en Provence walking around the Old Town you need a break every now and then. We stopped at Amarino Gelato, No. 1 Rue des Cordeliers – for one of the best gelatos in Aix en Provence France.
Discover the Oratoires
As we wandered through the Old Town we noticed these religious figures inset into a number of the older buildings. These figures are called oratoires – meaning small shrines. They were tiny places of prayer where the townspeople asked God to protect their families, their houses, their harvests, and their neighbors against the plague, sickness, drought, accidents and natural disasters. They first appeared in the 17th century when Catholicism was most influential. So don’t forget to look up as you wander the area.
Little White Train
We took this 45-60 min tour on the Little White Train through the Old Town. It was a good overview of the Old Town but was unsuitable for taking good photos. Connect with the train just outside the Tourist Information Centre. Cost is 10€ or is free with a City Pass.
Follow in the Steps of Paul Cezanne
Paul Cezanne, a world renowned impressionist, was born in Aix en Provence and lived much of his life here. Born and died in Aix en Provence France 1839 – 1906 .You can follow a walking guide to many of the residences in which he lived at one time or another, his schools, studios, family and relatives homes, museums with his works. Tours are also available and is one of the ways to spend a day in Aix en Provence. If Paul Cezanne is your thing, then do it!
Out of the Way Recognition of Cezanne
This bronze head of Cezanne was created from a drawing by Auguste Rodin and was made by a student of Maillol under the direction of Renoir. It was given to Aix en Provence France by a local merchant. We saw it on Rue des Biagniers.
Discover Cultural Events
As we wandered, we came upon a small group celebrating the Day of the Dead. This is a traditional festival celebrated mostly in Mexico for family to honour their deceased relatives, usually October 31 – November 2. There was music, food, dance, face painting with costumed performers. This is one of the many cultural events throughout the year in Aix en Provence France.
Église du Saint-Esprit.
We stopped into Église du Saint-Esprit on a narrow street in the Old Town. Originally built 1706-1728, it is a quiet place to reflect. It is now the main parish church for students in Aix en Provence France. Note the similar hexagonal tower here as with the Cathedral Saint-Saveur.
Place D’Albertas
The plan for this square was to build a square of almost royal/royal looking buildings with the fountain. Building began in 1735 and was finished in 1746. The stone bowl in the fountain dates to 1862. We found this square to be very peaceful from the tourist crowd since it is not normally on a must-see list.
Jailbreak
Here is a story you will never read about – ANYWHERE! This was once a prison. While we were looking at a map on our phone a woman came and asked us if we needed directions? Turns out she was from Montreal but living in Aix for more than 20 years.
She told us shortly after her arrival she was standing here and saw a rope of sheets thrown out of a window. Next, a man (obviously a prisoner), came out, shinnied down the sheet rope and ran away.
Fountain of Four Dolphins
We next walked to the Quartier Mazarin (neighbourhood) adjacent to the Old Town. Here we viewed this well known fountain with 4 dolphins topped by an obelisk. It was built in 1667 and is one of the so-called 1000 fountains in Aix en Provence France.
Église Saint-Jean de Malte
Built in 1277, it is the largest Gothic church in Provence. The bell tower peaks at 67m making it the highest point in Aix en Provence. Originally built as a hospice and chapel for the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem of the Order of Malta. It has since been converted to the current Gothic design. Once again we found it to be a peaceful respite from all the walking. The church is also in the Quartier Mazarin.
Musée Granet
While in the Quartier Mazarin we walked by the Musée Granet adjacent to Église Saint-Jean de Malte. Renowned for its collections of paintings spanning a broad period from the 14th to the 19th century, the Musée Granet also harbors gems of modern and contemporary art. It has a number of pieces by Cezanne of course (1 pictured outside). The collection numbers over 750 pieces. Unfortunately while we managed to spend a day in Aix en Provence we did not have enough time to spend an hour or two here – next time!
More Sites to Visit
This is how we managed to spend a day in Aix en Provence – we took our time and visited the above sites. We started at 8 am and finished by 4:30pm including stops for refreshments and lunch. But there is much more to see in Aix en Provence France. Take several more days and see it all – follow the steps of Cezanne, see more squares and fountains, view interesting unique doors crafted by sculptors and craftsmen – each telling a story and hiding what’s behind.
How Not to Spend a Day in Aix en Provence
We came on this minor accident – the participants do not look happy, the police are all business. This is not how you want to spend a day in Aix en Provence.
How to Get Around Aix en Provence France
We chose to stroll and take our time and followed, for the most part, the self guided walking tour map provided by the Tourist Information Office
You could hire a taxi and a driver. Most of the sites are in narrow streets, parking at a premium so not so practical, but possible – walking is still necessary however
For those with mobility issues, the perfect solution exists in Aix en Provence. Call Aix Handi Mobilité or contact them through the Tourist Information Centre. The small cars are electric powered.
Conclusion
We decided to spend a day in Aix en Provence as one of our day trips from Toulon where we had been spending several weeks. Was it worth it? – for sure! Next time we would spend several days. There is so much to see and do – culture and history in every block of the Old Town – a foodie’s delight with many small local restaurants – lots of sweets and fresh fruit. Welcoming and helpful folks everywhere. A great place to spend a day or more in Aix en Provence.
How to get to Aix en Provence France
We took an express bus from Toulon. No stops. Took just less than an hour leaving about 7am from the main Toulon bus station next to Gare de Toulon. Arrives just a few minutes walk from the Tourist Information Centre. Buses available from most other centres in Provence.
Trains are available from most points in Paris and southern France, From Toulon the train would take about 1.5 to 2 hours with a change in Marseille. For all France departures click here
One of the most flexible ways to get to Aix en Provence France is to drive. As you approach the city just follow the information signs to the Tourist Information Centre. Make sure you ask them about parking in the Old Town
What to Eat in Aix en Provence
While we managed to spend the day in Aix en Provence, our time was not without breaks for sustenance. One of the best cuisines in the south of France is here in Aix en Provence. It’s a foodies’ delight. The following was our experience
Breakfast
We arrived early in the morning on our direct express bus from Toulon. So before we went to the Tourist Office we stopped for breakfast at Les Artistes as the closest ‘open’ restaurant. They open at 7am. This typical French breakfast was a good starter at 8€. A big breakfast with eggs is 16€.
Lunch
Just a few steps toward the centre from Saint-Saveur Cathedral we stopped for lunch on Rue Gaston de Saporta. Since it was Hallowe’en the special was a double order of a buckwheat crepe by the witch Grabouilla. Very tasty, accompanied by a 1/2 liter of local wine.
Sweet Nothings
As we spend a day in Aix en Provence we continued our stroll down Rue Gaston de Saporta and came upon Madelines de Christophe at #4. It is rated as the best shop for Madelines in Aix en Provence France.
Madelines are bite-sized sponge cakes prepared with lots of butter and baked in a shell. They have a taste and texture of a light pound cake. They are a favourite French afternoon snack. There are a variety of flavours – we bought a dozen for less than 10€.
Continuing down the same street we came upon Amarino Gelato, No. 1 Rue des Cordeliers as the street changed – for one of the best gelatos in Aix en Provence France.
Where to Stay in Aix en Provence France
Since our goal was simply to spend a day in Aix en Province so we did not book a hotel. Here are some suggestions if you choose to stay longer
For Accommodation in Aix en Provence France click here
Free
New subscribers will receive a free award winning short story by Heather
Free
More Blogs from France
See more of our blogs from France
See our latest blog from Toulon
Be a Guest Blogger
We welcome guest bloggers – contact us here with the tag ‘blogger’
Read more from Heather
read more from Heather here
