Toulon France: Discover the Exquisite Charms of this Coastal Gem

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We have just returned from several weeks in Toulon France (November 2024). Our information is accurate, up to date and from our personal experience. As experienced travelers we know what to search out for fellow travelers.

Where is Toulon France

Toulon is a historic French city on the Mediterranean coast, about 40 miles southeast of Marseille. It is the southermost point along the Cote d’Azur. In addition it is the most important naval base in France, and is home to the French Mediterranean fleet. Toulon is also a ferry port with services to Corsica and to Sardinia.
The anchorage of Toulon is one of the best protected natural harbours on the Mediterranean.
It has been a port city since Roman times. The Romans called the settlement Telo Martius, a name that with time turned into the modern name Toulon.
Current population is about 585,000 in the metro area. Population of the city itself is just over 180,000.

Map of Toulon France

History

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Toulon suffered numerous invasions; it was attacked and plundered by the Arabs between the eighth and twelfth centuries.
From then it was a possession of the Viscounts until 1514 when it became a possession of France. Since 1514, when Louis XII (1462-1515) built a huge tower in the city to defend the port, Toulon became the main base of the French fleet in the Mediterranean Sea. It was the most advanced position in defense of Provence, with the Faron (‘Lighthouse’ or ‘look-out’) used as a watch tower for the sightings of possible enemies.

The city defenses around Toulon were further improved throughout the centuries. It was equipped with large shipyards. Toulon reached its greatest power in the eighteenth century.
In the modern age an important moment in the history of Toulon was the self-destruction, in its harbour, of much of the French fleet to prevent it from falling into the hands of the Germans (1942).

Is Toulon Worth Visiting

Toulon offers an authentic experience without hordes of tourists. One of the few places along the French Riviera where you can experience a truly French historic city. It offers a completely walkable historic neighbourhood with original buildings and monuments. The Old Town of Toulon is embedded with many restaurants and bars to suit all tastes.
Excellent beaches are but a few steps away. It is a port for ferries to Corsica and Sardinia.

What is the Weather Like in Toulon France

Toulon (and Marseille) are the sunniest cities in France with over 2800 hrs and about 170 days of sunshine. Rain falls in small amounts mainly during the winter. It is hot in the summer and mild/temperate during the rest of the year. Palm trees abound. When we visited in October-early November highs were in the low to mid 20s (C) and lows in the upper teens – very pleasant.
Check the current weather in Toulon here .

Cruise Ships

Cruise ships do stop in at Toulon from March to November. There are 2 ports for the ships Toulon itself and across the bay at Seyne-sur-Mer. Most stop for a day so cruisers can explore for a few hours. We were in Toulon for several weeks in October-November and must report that the volume of cruisers in town was modest. The volume would be noticeably higher during the summer months.

Things to Do in Old Town Toulon France – best guide 2025

Map of Old Town Toulon France

Tourist Information Office

The very first place to go is the Office of Tourism if you are new in town! It is just at the junction of Av. de la République at Place Louis Blanc. Get maps, information, self-guided walking tours. Weekly bus passes for 9.98€ are available and include unlimited bus rides, local ferries and nearby towns. Staying more than a couple of days, the pass is well worth it. We got a bus map for the area.

Book a Tour of Toulon France here

Little White Train

This is a tourist train running from 10am to 3pm, every 30 min. Cost is 7€. They have a 45 min route around the port and to the Mourillon beaches.

Lafayette Market

All along Cours Lafayette is a fresh market 6 days a week (not Mondays). This market stretches for over 4 blocks. It is mostly fresh fruits and vegetables. Also olives, roasted chestnuts, pâtés, spreads, seasonal items, etc.. Clothing, knickknacks, prepared foods are also available.

Cathedral of Saint Marie de la Seds of Toulon

The first cathedral at Toulon existed in the 5th century, but no trace of it remains. Construction of the current cathedral began in 1096 but it was not until 1697-1701 that the classical facade was completed. It was temporarily a mosque for 10 years in the middle of the 16th century.

Port of Toulon France

Walk around the port itself is definitely a must thing to do. Many bars and restaurants as well as ferries to Corsica, Sardinia and to local destinations across the bay. A tour boat is available for exploring the harbour.

The Genius of Navigation statue was placed by the port in 1847. The base shows figures of famous French sailors. The statue represents the expertise the French developed in navigation.
Les Atlantes are the sculptures that are over the entrance to the old city hall facing the port and just behind the Genius of Navigation statue. The sculptures were created by Pierre Puget in 1657.

National Maritime Museum

National Maritime Museum, located on the port and adjacent to the naval base. It is an excellent representation of Toulon’s maritime history. There are displays and models showing life and ships as far back as 1490 when the King first established a navy. Not to be missed!

Porte d’Italie

This is one of the last remaining ramparts visible of the former walls surrounding the inner city. It is this gate through which Napoleon and his army marched to begin his Italian campaign 1792-1801. Josephine de Beauharnais waved bon voyage to him here.

Rue des Arts

There is a section in the Old Town comprised of 8 or 9 small streets with a concentration of art galleries and studios. It is a good walk to browse the art displayed. Some good restaurants and bars in this area make a pleasant few hours.

Opera/Ballet Theatre

The Opera Theatre was opened in 1862. It has performances of opera, broadway-type performances and ballet. It is the 2nd biggest opera house in France and seats 1329. Inside it has a beautiful ceiling fresco with 123 figures. If you see a performance it may be the highlight of your visit.

Musée d’Art

The Art Museum of Toulon has over 400 paintings from the 15th century to the 20th century. It is free to enter. When we visited, the 2nd floor was under renovation and only a small gallery was open. The first floor was entirely open. A wonderful place to spend an hour or more.

Téléphérique du Mont Faron

A view of the city from atop Mont Faron. We reached it by cable car, Téléphérique. It can be reached by car/taxi or by quite a walk. The top is 584 m (1916 ft) above Toulon and well worth the 20min trip.
How to get to the Téléphérique – Take the #40 bus to the foot of the cable car. Cost of the cable car is 9€ for a return trip. Check at the Tourist Information Centre to make sure the cable car is operating that day. It shuts down in high winds. At the top there is a museum, restaurant, zoo, chapel and picnic areas.

Médiathėque

Médiathėque is a recently (2020) opened multimedia library. The facility is a 5,000m2 (53,800ft2) place for research, exploration and activities with more that 70,000 works – art, books,multimedia. We wandered the 3 floors for several hours. Quite a place!

Old Chicago Neighbourhood

This mural on the side of a former hotel depicts the Chicago neighbourhood of Toulon – work and after work activities. Chicago, little Chicago or simply Chicag’ for sailors, this once disreputable district of Toulon is located at the bottom of the old town. This area is close to the port and the naval station. It was once a favourite place for off duty seamen to spend time. Then, this area had a very bad reputation.

Church St-François-de-Paule

This church was built between 1744-1749. During the French Revolution (1789-1799) the church became the headquarters of the Jacobin Club, a revolutionary political movement and a munitions depot. The church was heavily damaged during the Second World War. It was restored and opened again to worship in 1967. It is located directly across from the Tourist Information Office. We visited just as a service was ending.

Place de la Liberté

This is a large main square on Boulevard Strasbourg. Originally called place des Armes as it was used for military activities, it was renamed in 1889 to mark the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution. The figures in the Fountain of Federation represent France, force and justice (but not liberty). In the background is the once Grand Hotel (1868-9) now offices. It also is the home to Toulon’s main theatre, Theatré. When we visited in late October the square was readying for Christmas celebrations in Toulon.

Fountains of Toulon France

There are at least 200 fountains scattered throughout the city. All tell a story of local history and demonstrate an artistic endeavor. They also reflect on the importance of water to Toulon. This fountain is in Place Sénės. This fountain was built in 1615 and has since been restored. In fact, you can visit the Tourist Information Centre and take a tour of the city’s fountains. Don’t drink the water!

Place Raimu

I am sitting at a bronze statue of a scene from the 1930’s film trilogy, Marius, Fanny, Cesar, by Marcel Pagnol starring a local actor Jules Raimu. This is in Place Raimu and is a favourite photo op for tourists (like me).

Stade Mayol

Stade Mayol is the home of the Toulon Rugby Club. The club’s major wins, European Championships, league titles, are on the sign. The stadium was initially built in1919 by the generosity of Felix Mayol, a Toulon born singer-songwriter. It has be modernized and seats 18,500. A not widely known fact – Bob Marley had one of his last concerts here.

Les Kiosques

This is one of several kiosks selling rare and secondhand books, DVDs, magazines, and collectibles. Established in the 70s they are a treasure of Toulon. New (old) items are added daily.

Royal Ship Sculpture

This is a life size sculpture of the prow of an 18th century royal ship. You can see this on Rue Vezzani.

Beaches of Toulon France

There are many beaches in and near Toulon – use your bus pass to enjoy them.

Mourillon

Le Mourillon is a neighbourhood of Toulon. But it is like its own village – narrow streets, many restaurants and bars, a fresh market, a handful of beaches, and quite a residential area. In general it is a bit more upscale than the rest of Toulon.

There are 4 main/large beaches here – 1 natural and 3 which are man made. It is hard to tell the difference. Each has restaurants, bars and snack bars as well as washroom/change facilities. I went for a swim, cool in late October but doable. It was nice and quiet during the week. There are several small beaches as well. Check out Mitre beach. We took #3 bus from the tourist office – 10 min ride to the beaches.
Are there nude beaches – yes but you’ll have to do your own research.

There are more beaches nearby which we will cover in a future blog.

How to Spend 1 day in Toulon France

Head to a boulangerie for a coffee and croissant to start the day. Then to the Tourist Information Office. Try a tour. Wander the Old Town, lunch by the port. Take the Little White Train tour and see the port area as well the beaches in Mourillon. Then dinner and drinks at Les Halles

Book your tour of the Old Town here

How to Spend 2 days in Toulon France

Follow Day 1 itinerary. Next day take the Téléphérique. Visit the National Maritime Museum. Try a new restaurant. Have ice cream by the port.

What to Eat in Toulon France

Cade – There are a number of versions of this food in France and Italy. This version is unique to Toulon and a must try for visitors. Cade is made from chickpea flour, olive oil and water. Sometimes onion slices and/or rosemary is added. The batter is then put in a round pizza pan and then into a very hot pizza oven. It comes out with a baked top and soft bottom. Originally a cheap dish for the poor, now with new popularity among all – tasty, cheap, nutritious and gluten-free. Try it with a glass of wine – everything tastes better with wine! You can find it in the Lafayette market.
Other versions can be found in Nice (socca) and Marseille (panisse).

Where to Eat in Toulon France – our recommendations

Les Halles

One of the best places to eat in Toulon – Les Halles. This reopened in 2021 after a 20 year absence in this historic art deco building built in 1929. There are 25 food artisans – cheese shop, wine bar, cocktails, butcher, seafood, grills, bakery and more. Eat in or take your food and drinks outside under sunbrellas or sit at the rooftop.
1 block from Cours Lafayette at Rue Jean Aircard and Place Vincent Raspail Stand.

Brasserie La Reale

We ate several times at this restaurant overlooking the port. It was very popular among the locals. Prices here are very moderate.

Racines

This restaurant is in the Michelin Guide as well as the Gault & Millau Guide. It is chef owned and operated. The food is usually local and the menu changes with the seasons. Unfortunately it was closed for school break when we went. Next time for sure. It is #4 on Trip Advisor’s best restaurants of Toulon. You can find it at 49 rue Corneille.

Cafés Maurice

This is our favourite place for coffee in Toulon. They have been in Toulon since 1875. They roast and grind their own coffee, currently single sourced from Honduras. There is another branch in the neighbouring suburb, Mourillon. A great place to start your morning! Located in Place Camille Ledeau.

Gelateria le Chamo

We had alcoholic ice cream sundaes on a sunny afternoon at the port. Gelateria le Chamo was our go to place for this delicacy. One made with Grand Marnier and one with rum – no holding back on the alcohol either. 10 euros each.

L’épecerie simple

Located on Cours Lafayette near the corner of Rue Paul Lendrin this small cafe has much to offer. In the morning we had their croissants and coffee a few times. We were told independently that they have the best croissants in Toulon. We have to agree – of the croissants around town we tried, these were the best! As part of the famous Lafayette market this restaurant bakes bread In the morning to sell from a small oven in the street. Very delicious.

Les Palets d’Or

This is our recommendation for a great boulangerie. The bakery has the usual croissants but many other pastry and sweet items as well as flatbreads and sandwiches. All made onsite. You can find it on Cours Lafayette near the corner of Rue Aézard.

Cognac

We often ended our day with snifters of cognac.

Where to Stay in Toulon France

We stayed several weeks at Stéphanie’s Place (on Airbnb) – it was a great location, a great unit and a great host. In our research before travelling we found many very good units in Toulon on Airbnb. Good for medium and long term stays.

If you prefer a shorter stay, check out this link:

Book Accommodation in Toulon here

How to Get to Toulon

Conclusion

Would we recommend visiting Toulon – yes! yes! yes! We found the Old Town to be very walkable with few cars throughout since the streets are totally for pedestrians. The streets and plazas are cleaned daily. The area is very safe. While we visited we saw no drunks, no misbehaviour in bars, restaurants or on the streets at any time. Lots to see and do. We spent several weeks and were never bored. See for yourself!

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