Rio Lagartos Yucatan: A Complete Guide
Rio Lagartos Yucatan
We just finished a 4 day stay in Rio Lagartos Yucatan (March 2025). We found so much to see and do in this off the beaten track small coastal town. Explore the Ria Lagartos Biosphere, Las Coloradas, Cancunito, San Felipe. Discover Rio Lagartos itself including many free things, like deserted beaches, swim in a cenote. It is a birdwatchers’ paradise.
Where is Rio Lagartos
It is on the north shore of the Yucatan Peninsula, the terminus of Ruta del Flamingo. It lies about 100km north of the Valladolid exit from the Cancun-Merida Cuota (toll road)
Map of Rio Lagartos Yucatan
History of Rio Lagartos
Francisco Hernandez, a Spanish explorer, cruised into the lagoon here looking for water in 1517. He saw crocodiles everywhere he looked, so he called the place “Lagartos” (Spanish for alligators). Believing the water was from a river the area became Rio Lagartos. Wrong on both counts. There is no river, only a large lagoon. There are no alligators, only crocodiles.
When to visit
Between March and October you will see upwards of 40,000 flamingos nesting the nearby Ria Lagartos Biosphere (Ria means estuary). If thousands of flamingos are not your thing then any other time of the year is fine. December to March the weather is mainly dry and not sweltering. There are always some flamingos to see November to March.
Is Rio Lagartos worth visiting
Absolutely! If you are looking for off the beaten track and unspoiled Mexico, this is the place to be. Avoid the crowds at Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum and stay in a more secluded and Yucatecan town. UNESCO biosphere – birds including thousands of flamingos, crocodiles, pink lakes, dolphins and deserted beaches all at Rio Lagartos.
How big is Rio Lagartos
Population here is about 4,000. Our hotel was on the lagoon on the southwest part of town. We could walk everywhere (and did!) in town in 10-15 minutes.
How safe is Rio Lagartos
We walked in the late evening coming home from restaurants and bars and never felt uncomfortable. In fact there were few people out on the streets, many were sitting in front of their homes and chatting. So no danger. Remember – this is the Yucatan, the safest state in Mexico we are told.
Things to do in Rio Lagartos Yucatan
Discover nearby gems
Ria Lagartos Biosphere
This was No. 1 on our list of must do. This very large area covers 233 sq miles (603 sq kms) and was named and designated by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve. It extends along the eastern end of Gulf of Mexico coast of the State of Yucatan.
We hired an official guide and his boat for a 3 hour 40km+ tour of the nearby Biosphere. We saw many birds including flamingos, some crocodiles and dolphins. The guide offered continuing information on the Biosphere. The cost was just under $100 usd, well worth it. One could share a boat and guide for less. There is no shortage of boats and guides so negotiating is possible.
Book your Biosphere tour here before it sells out
Las Coloradas – Pink Lakes
Since we had a car we were able to travel here on our own. 15-20 min from town. Here is the site of a large salt production facility. The waters are mainly pink in colour (hence Las Coloradas). The salt precipitates out in a series of pools separated by dams which allow the water to evaporate. The water travels through the dams and the depth becomes more shallow. The colour, we are told, is due to tiny algae cells in the water which do not precipitate out. The final salt is white. Quite a sight. 1,000 local people are employed here.
Driving past the plant you will find a large parking lot. You may be asked to pay 400 pesos per person to walk or bike around one of the pools. Forget it. We parked on the road just outside the lot and were able to shoot photos at will. As well, we tipped the attendant 100 pesos to take some personal pics. Walk through the parking lot to the first small store selling the salt produced here. 35pesos for a small bag.
Book your Coloradas tour here before it sells out
Flamingos Tour
When you are in Rio Lagartos between April and July take a tour from one of the boatmen along the malecon to see upwards of 40,000 flamingos. They are nesting in the the Ria Lagartos Biosphere. The cost per boat is 2,000 pesos – so if sharing the boat with others, cost could be as little as 300-400 pesos.
On regular Biosphere tours throughout the year, some flamingo viewing will always be included. We saw several small groups during our tour in Late March.
However if you want to see the large numbers, then head to Celestun down the coast with access from Merida. They are breeding there between November and March.
Book your Flamingos tour here before it sells out
See the sunset from a rooftop bar or on a boat from the water
The best view of the sunset at Rio Lagartos is from the 5th floor bar at Hotel Rio Lagartos. There are often 2 for 1 specials and sometimes live music is also available. We were the only ones there when we went. With some negotiation we had 2 for 1 margaritas (120 pesos). Note there is no elevator so expect to climb the stairs to the top. Worth the view!
Another choice is to take a romantic sunset cruise and enjoy the sunset from the lagoon with wine and snacks – quite spectacular!
Book your sunset cruise here before it sells out
Try stargazing
The area is an amazing place to look at the night sky – many clear nights and away from town in the lagoon without stray light. For most tourists this is a new latitude with a new configuration of stars and planets which are seen from total darkness.
Book your stargazing tour here before it sells out
Free things to do
Cancunito
This is a wonderful mostly deserted beach on the road to the salt plant. We spent a few hours at this little ‘Cancun’ beach. A few palapas dot the beach which extends out of sight in each direction.
San Felipe
The Fort of San Felipe was built in 1733 under the orders of Don Antonio de Figueroa de Silva, field marshal of Yucatán. The fort was erected to defend against attacks by pirates at the time. According to local legend the Spaniards buried here the jewels stolen from a cemetery of Mayan lords.
The town is about a 15 min drive from Rio Lagartos. We found most of the homes to be painted in very bright colours – almost like a fairy town.
We heard from a reliable local source that the houses were painted in coordination with families – if the father’s house was a particular colour then the son’s house was the same. Another source told us that the town council encouraged everyone to paint their house with vibrant colours. We like the first story better. Some of these houses are well over 100 years. They are constructed with wood, varnished with burnt oil, to discourage termites.
San Felipe is at the eastern end of the Ria Largartos Biosphere. There are boat tours to the mangroves and even a walking trail in the mangroves – watch out for jaguars and crocodiles!
But most tours/shuttles go to La Playa Bonita on the Gulf of Mexico. A beautiful beach – no bars or restaurants – you are on your own.
It is definitely off the beaten path – we were the only tourists on the day we went.
Swim in the local cenote
Follow the malecon road out of town and in less that 5 min you will come to a large parking lot. Continue through and you will see a large palapa. Beside it is a cenote. Free. Used mainly by locals.
Visit a small chapel in the mangroves
If you parked for the cenote, look behind and you will see a sign beside a trail ‘Capilla de la Guadalupe”. We followed the trail for about 200m and came upon a small chapel in the mangroves. It is usually open. Worth a visit.
Walk along the malecon
We took our time and strolled for about 15 minutes from end to end. A good way to survey most of the lagoon side restaurants, the activities of the boatmen, and people watch. Don’t forget to look up at the number of seabirds looking for a fishy meal.
Take a photo at the Rio Lagartos sign
There are actually two in town – one at the top of the Malecon near calle 9 and calle 9A …. and one near the large parking lot before the cenote. We liked this one (near the cenote) best as it was more natural.
Stroll through town
It is easy to go from one end of town to the other in 15 min. There are restaurant, bars, small tiendas and even a supermarket sized for the community. Most of the in-town restaurants will have lower prices than those with a water view.
Visit the Cultural Centre
We took the first road on the right as we entered town at the end of the divided boulevard and came onto the local cultural Centre. There are lots of activities here. They are mainly for the local community and so are in Spanish as well as a few in Maya. Tourists are welcome but need fluent Spanish skills to fully enjoy.
It is next to the new bank.
Explore the Ruta del Flamingo
Stop in Tizimin for the catacombs
This is definitely a weird attraction. About 125 years ago, the owner of farmland here decided to hollow out some of the caves under his land to display some of his figures carved in the rock. He thought it would be a good idea to charge people to see them. There are 3 sites, 2 of which are open to visitors today. Go to the corner of calles 59 and 54. Standing on c 54 looking toward out of town there are the two sites of catacombs, both on c 59.To your left is catacomb Escondida. to your right further down c 59 is catacomb Tres Reyes. We only visited Escondida. Entry fee 100 pesos/person. We spent about 20 minutes wandering around in the catacombs.
The third site of catacomb was once a bar and is now not open. Too bad!
Artesanal Ice Cream
Subterra Helados at calle 40 at c 59 in Tizimin has a number of unique flavours as well as all the regular ones. It was closed the day we passed through Tizimin and so missed tasting chocolate cream with bacon and carmelized octopus. Other flavours are made with many Yucatecan substances – tequila, xabentun, nance, cheese, passion fruit, tamarind and rum. We will have to wait until next time.
Kuluba Ruins
About 30kms southeast of Tizimin are the Kulubu ruins. This site is only partially excavated and well out of the way. A four wheel drive or jeep is best to follow the rocky ‘road’ into the site from a paved road. You can park your car and walk in about 2 km if you prefer. Wear appropriate clothing since there are ticks, mosquitoes and other creepy crawlies. We parked but had to abandon the hike before we arrived at the ruins. We will try again sometime.
Roadside Art
Keep your eyes sharp for a display of art in a roadside tree stump.
Conclusion
Enjoy a stay by the water and explore this unique Yucatecan destination. Rio Lagartos might be small and out of the way but is boasts so many wonderful and low cost attractions. Discover the UNESCO Biosphere, pink lakes, deserted beaches and, at the right time of year, thousands of nesting flamingos. Fewer tourists mean lower prices.
Are there ATMS in Rio Lagartos
Yes! During our stay a new bank, Bienestar, opened at the edge of town (just beside the Cultural Centre). Complete with an ATM. The bank is open and in operation. The ATM was not but should be in operation by the end of April we were told. This is the first blog with this latest information!
How to get to Rio Lagartos
By Car
This is the most efficient and easiest way to get to Rio Lagartos. Plus a car makes it convenient to explore the area. From Valladolid 1.5hrs; from Cancun 3.5 hrs; from Merida just under 3 hrs.
By Bus
ADO buses from Valladolid, Merida and Cancun to Tizimin, then Autobuses Noreste Yucatan – 7 times daily. 1 hour trip. Collectivo vans are also available and leave when full. Schedules change so check with the operator for most up to date.
Cost 5-9 pesos for Noreste.
Taxi
Taxis are available from Tizimin and normally take less than an hour. Cost is about 2500 pesos.
Plan your trip to Rio Lagartos
We stayed 4 days and found it relaxing and it enabled us to see everything without rushing. We suggest 2 days minimum to fully explore the best there is to see.
Day 1
arrive at noon
Lunch – see choices under Where to eat
visit Las Coloradas
relax on the beach at Cancuncito
stroll the Malecon
see the sunset atop Hotel Rio Lagartos
choices for dinner under Where to eat
Day 2
take a tour of the Biosphere 3hrs
breakfast – see choices under Where to Eat
visit San Felipe
have a swim in cenote at Rio Lagartos
lunch – see choices under Where to Eat
depart
Where to Eat
Breakfast
our recommendations – where we ate
El Salbulito – wonderful breakfast at a low price approx 100 pesos/person
112 Calle Sexta, opens 6am, closed Saturdays and Sundays
La Mojarrita – our choice for the best restaurant in town; cost approx 200 pesos/person
truly a wonderful breakfast – eggs, guacamole, fruit, toast, coffee
on the Malecon corner of calle 17 open 7am daily
Maleconcito Gourmet – good full breakfast overlooking the lagoon – eggs, toast, fruit, coffee
on the Malecon in the Yuum Ha Boutique Hotel; open daily at 7am
Other choices
Flomar Cocina – Malecon at calle 15- open 8am – modest price – not open when we travelled
El Perico Marinero – calle 14 17 y 19 0pen 8am average price
Lunch and Dinner
Our recommendations – where we ate
all restaurants we experienced in Rio Lagartos feature local fresh fish and shrimp each served in a variety of ways. Expect to see chicken and Yucatecan dishes as well. Lunch and dinner had mostly identical menus.
La Mojarrita – our choice for the best restaurant in town – our dinner on the 2nd floor overlooking the lagoon in the evening was perfect. On the Malecon corner of calle 17 . Emmanuel the owner is very friendly and usually comes to see how you are enjoying the meal. Cost ~500 pesos for 2 meals and wine
Hotel Rio Lagartos Restaurant – great food, reasonable price 350 pesos per person with wine. Ask for the table under the palapa if dining in the evening. Don’t forget to head to the rootop bar here for the sunset. Calle 14, 17 y 19. Open until 10pm
El Manglar – cozy under the palapa restaurant near the lower end of the populated portion of the Malecon at calle 20. Open 10-7. For lunch or early dinner. Cost not more than 250 pesos per person.
Other choices
Los Negritos – comes highly recommended but we didn’t try it this time – long standing restaurant here , 40 years. Serves traditional Yucatecan food. Calle 10 at c 21. open 6am -10pm though anytime we walked past in the morning it was closed, probably open at noon. We did see it open in the evening.
DejaVu – calle sexta, Very popular and open late 1am. Music some nights. Food reputation is good we heard.
Ria Maya – nice location with 2nd floor dining overlooking the docks. Calle 19 at c 14. We had lunch there but can’t recommend it – the staff was not committed to service, the food was so so.
Where to stay
our recommendation – where we stayed
Casa Delfines – small hotel with 6 water front rooms with balconies or decks. two queen beds, TV, good wifi, bar fridge, roof top zone, pool. They have additional non-waterfront rooms which are cheaper. Free coffee and pastries in the morning. We paid about 1,000 pesos/night for 3 nights.
Other choices
Hotel Rio Lagartos – a 4 story hotel, largest in town. Full service hotel. Calle 14 – 17 y 19. About 1500 pesos/room/night
Hotel Villa Pescadores – on the malecon at c 14. Best rate we have seen here is 1200 pesos/room/night incl breakfast
Yuum Ha Boutique Hotel – pricey at 2100 pesos/room/night with a great breakfast included. Modern hotel.
There are a number of accommodation choices, mostly much cheaper than those listed including camping at the local cenote under a palapa.
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