Progreso Yucatan: Beaches, Culture, and More
Progreso Yucatan
We have spent much time in Progreso Yucatan (aka Puerto Progreso) over a number of years. It was our winter home for 5 years some time ago. Recently we spent several days to experience the changes from more than 10 years ago. With any place time marches on and the changes are both good and bad. This updated guide to Progreso Mexico includes many of our experiences.
Where is Progreso Yucatan Mexico
Progreso is 35 km north of Merida, state capital of the State of Yucatan. The Yucatan Peninsula is made up of three states – Yucatan, Quintana Roo and Campeche
History of Progreso Yucatan
Port of Progreso was founded by Don Juan Miguel Castro, owner of several henequen (sisal) haciendas in 1871. The sisal business was booming in the late 19th and 20th centuries. The smaller port of Sisal to the west was inadequate. Henequen and sisal are stiff fibers from two varieties of agave plants. They are used in the making of rope, twine, carpets and paper.
Several wharfs were built in the beginning for exports of sisal and imports of goods to the Yucatan. Over the years the wharfs developed into the world’s largest pier at just over 8,000m (~5miles).
Over the years well-off locals from Merida and other parts of Mexico built fine homes here all along the coast. Progreso has developed into a wonderful beach town with many amenities.
From its humble beginnings as a port for the henequen trade to its current status as a modern city, Progreso continues to thrive and evolve.
Future of Progreso Yucatan
Coming soon to Progreso is the development of world class dry dock facilities, specializing in reconditioning cruise ships.
When to Visit Progreso Yucatan
The best time to visit is late November to early April when temperatures and humidity are comfortable and rainfall is low. Late spring to late summer is hot and humid – also crowded as Mexicans holiday. Fall is the rainy season.
Is Progreso Yucatan Worth Visiting
Absolutely! If you are looking for great beaches, warm weather, margaritas, this is the place to be. Avoid the crowds at Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum and stay in a more secluded and Yucatecan town. Maya ruins are close by for those seeking ancient culture.
How Big is Progreso
The population is about 60,000. Once a small fishing town, Progreso is a bustling beach town with many restaurants, bars and a variety of accommodation choices. Several large supermarkets enable easy long stays.
How Safe is Progreso Yucatan
We have been coming here for a longtime and have always found Progreso to be very safe. We have heard of home break-ins, usually when owners are absent. There is increasing police presence as the population grows. We have never felt unsafe here.
Things to Know When Visiting Progreso
All streets are numbered (as most are in Mexico). About 2 years ago the city added ’50’ to each of the street numbers to be consistent in the city. So you may see the old numbers such as 25 which becomes 75. The main streets in and out of Progreso are 80 and 82, so no change.
Want to buy alcohol in the Yucatan – only available 10am to 10pm in stores and supermarkets (Sunday 11am to 5pm). Don’t worry though. Bars are open mid morning until the wee hours.
Best Things to Do in Progreso Yucatan
Tourist Information Centre
Located in Casa de la Cultura Puerto Progreso at calle 25 (or 75) and calle 80. Make this your first stop as a newbie.
Progreso Beach
The beach is the place to be in Progreso Yucatan – the best beach town in the Yucatan. The even numbered streets in centro all end at the beach. Swimming in the warm shallow Gulf of Mexico is safe and enjoyable. Many water sports beckon.
International Malecon of Progreso Yucatan
The Malecon at Progreso is an auto free boulevard bordering the beach. It extends on both sides of the pier for walking, jogging , biking and even dog walking, leashed of course. It is just over 6km (3.8 miles). Many restaurants and beach bars line the Malecon. We were tempted successfully to eat and drink at a few (more later). As in the photo small vendors selling arts and crafts are common but not intrusive.
We found the Malecon to be enjoyable day and night – the evening held special charm for us.
Progreso Pier
The Progreso Pier holds the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s longest pier at just over 8km (about 5miles)! It was built to handle large cargo ships. The cruise ships have now taken advantage of it also. Only cargo trucks and buses shuttling cruise passengers are allowed on the pier – no pedestrians. Photo op at the sign ‘El Muelle mas largo del mundo’ (longest pier in the world).
There is a fisherman’s pier just to the west of the Progreso Pier which is available to pedestrians. It is much smaller and originally for local fishing boats. Sometimes called the Chocolate Pier since it was once used by the Chocolate sailboat race from France to Progreso following the route once used for the export of chocolate from Mexico to Europe. Great place to view the spectacular sunsets over the Gulf.
Monument to the Founder of Progreso
The monument to the founder of Progreso Yucatan Juan Miguel Castro Martin in 1871 is at the western edge of the Malecon nearest the Pier.
Meteorite Museum
The newest museum in Progreso Yucatan is along the Malecon and is home to a display of over 300 meteorites from all over the world. It is located here because of the Chicxulub crater just east of Progreso. An asteroid 10-15 km in diameter impacted here 66 million years ago creating a crater of 150 km. About this time the large terrestrial dinosaurs disappeared as did many botanical varieties. The museum also has wonderful displays of dinosaurs. Wondering what to do with the kids? An ideal and educational way to spend 1-3 hours. Cost is 350 pesos, free for children up to 4.
Jurassic Trail
Close to Progreso is the small town of Chicxulub the name of which was given to the meteorite which fell nearby. There is a Jurassic theme park with a trail of a variety of life size dinosaurs brought to life with motorized movement and sound effects. The Sendero Jurasico is great for the whole family. Admission 300 pesos.
Fitness on the Beach
Want to keep fit while staying in Progreso Yucatan? Here is a free fitness facility on the beach. Do your workout in fresh air by the sea. Then take a 3 mile run on the Malecon. Finally relax with a margarita by the sea.
Progreso Lighthouse
The lighthouse at Progreso is locally known as Faro SEMAR ( Spanish for Lighthouse of the Navy) and dates to 1893. It is almost 35m (114 ft) high and visible from over 35 km (22 miles). Guided tours are available. We didn’t have enough time on this visit but plan a tour next time.
Cruisers
Cruise ships make regular stops in Puerto Progreso. The cruisers are bussed from the ship to land. They have options to stay in town, visit the Mayan ruins of Uxmal, visit the charming 500+year old colonial city of Merida, sail, fish and several other activities. We were told by more than one restauranteur and vendor that these visitors do not specifically help the local economy – ‘they only want to use the washroom without spending any money”, “they plug the toilets with toilet paper”
(most washrooms are on septic tanks in the Yucatan so paper in the toilet is a no no).
Maya Ruins
There are several spectacular Maya ruins very close to Progreso. The photo above was taken during the Spring Solstice at Dzibilchaltun, a 20 min drive from Progreso on the road to Merida. We got up at 5am and drove out to the ruins. You can see from the photo many others had the same idea. We all waited until the sun aligned perfectly through an opening in the Temple of the Dolls. What a moving experience!
Book your tour to Dzibilchaltun here
Another close by ruins is at Xcambo (prounced shhh cambo) about 35 minutes from Progreso to the east. This is the site of salt flats where the Maya extracted the salt primarily for trade since salt was a scarce resource among the indigenous then.
Don’t miss these ruins – most worthwhile and close to Progreso!
Progreso Mercado
The Municipal Mercado is a large space with fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish caught from the night before. All vendors are local. Covered parking is also available. Crafts and local arts are also available. Restaurant and juice counters are to be enjoyed at rock bottom prices.
A couple of blocks away there is an outside market selling clothes and crafts.
Main Square/City Hall Progreso
Parque Independencia is located between calles 80 and 82 and calles 81 and 83 (31 and 33). City Hall on the west side of the square is called Civil Registry Progreso City. This square is a centre for local activities – parades, bands, children’s dance and cultural performances. We used to wander to the square often and most nights there was always something happening. Lots of local restaurants are around the square.
Fresh Fish on the Beach
If you want your fish just caught, wander along the beach past the Malecon and you’re sure to find a fisherman selling fish from his boat. Prices here can’t be beat. Ask him to filet one if you prefer.
Progreso Photo Op
Two Progreso signs make for great photo ops – the large sign is at the eastern end of the Malecon. The sign over the palapa is midway on the beach. Take your pick!
El Corchito
This is an ecological area on the southside of Progreso Yucatan. It is only accessible by boat. Go there at the end of Calle 46 if you are coming from Progreso. If you approach from Merida turn right after the bridge on 27 and follow the signs. We have been there a couple of times and have always hired a guide to ensure we saw lots of birds and wildlife. There are crocodiles but we didn’t see any when we visited. There are a couple of cooling cenotes. It is a forest of mangroves suitable for kayaking.
We rented kayaks on the road to Yucalpeten on the other side of the bridge from El Corchito at La Ria Progreso. We hired a guide and paddled through the mangroves to the outskirts of El Corchito. A guide is necessary unless you are totally familiar with the area, Very easy to lose your way.
Book your paddle tour of the mangroves here
Shopping in Progreso Yucatan
If you are seeking fine jewelry and fashionable clothes, Progreso is not the place to be. Cruisers are often disappointed when seeking these items. Most of the stores service locals, be they expats or Yucatecans. For better shopping everyone heads to Merida a short drive away.
Street Art
As you wander the streets of Progreso Yucantan you will see colourful street art. This one is found in a small alleyway opposite (facing) the Casa de la Cultura. The alleyway is called Love Alley. This is one of 5 murals created by the famous Mexican artist Senkoe who exhibits internationally. This alley was once called la mugre – the filth. Quite a change as we wandered through.
Police Presence
We managed a photo of these 2 Guardia Nacional appearing for the first time on the Malecon beach. Locals frowned at the sight. They could only think about the massive police presence in Cancun and Playa del Carmen and hoped it wasn’t going to happen here. The two seemed more interested in their phones rather than what was going on at the beach. Maybe they were receiving further instructions.
Have a Drink on the Beach
I am having a refreshing frozen margarita with taco chips and guacamole by the sea. Sounds great doesn’t it? But beware. Most of the beach bars along the Malecon offer this service but be careful that you get what you paid for. I had the experience of being upcharged for a double shot when I was questioning that there might not have been even a full shot of tequila. The price was immediately reduced on the challenge.
Day Trips from Progreso
The photos are some of the many worthwhile day trips from Progreso. Over the years we have been to all of these places and more in the Yucatan. We have found exploring by car to be safe and stimulating.
Book a day tour to Uxmal here
Long Stays
A number of Canadians and Americans choose to stay from 3 months to a year and more. A number have made their permanent home in Progreso Yucatan. We have been one of the long stays – 5 years of 3-6 months. Many of us drove here from our homes in Canada and the US.
There is a strong expat community in Progreso of permanent and part time residents. As a result the support systems here – community support groups, medical, shopping, banking, security, renting, buying and more are in place. There is a good selection of supermarkets: Super Aki, Bodega Aurerra, Soriana and the spanking new Super Chedraui. If anything is not in Progreso, guaranteed it is in Merida a short bus/car ride away.
This is the charming small second floor apartment in which we stayed recently. We spent 5 years here, 5-6 months at a time. Just steps from the beach, a few blocks from the Malecon. Reply to this blog for more info.
Conclusion
Staying in Progreso by the beach and the warm Gulf of Mexico has got to be good for your health. Personally we have found this to be true. Progreso has grown over the years. There are many new bars and restaurants but some of the traditional ones remain. Costs here can be modest indeed if you rent/buy away the beach and eat locally. No crowds and expense like Cancun!
Do I Have to Speak Spanish
No, most people in bars, restaurants, tours will speak at least some English. It is helpful to know some Spanish as you travel around, shop in smaller stores and go to local establishments. There are many expats around who will be glad to help you out. Some body language is also helpful.
How to get to Progreso Yucatan
Once you get to Merida, travelling to Progreso is fast and easy by car or bus. Taxis are also available.
CAR – If you are in Merida Centro just follow Calle 60 north which becomes highway 261 and goes straight into Progreso. Alternatively take the Periferico (ring road) in Merida and then exit at the well marked signs to Progreso on #261.
BUS – The Autoprogreso bus operates daily every 15 min from 5am to 8pm between Merida at calle 62 – x Calle 65 y 67 and Progreso at calle 82 -x 27 y 29. Cost is 21pesos/person one way. There are a few Merida stops each way. Check the link for the route. Autoprogreso offers tours to many regional destinations.
Where to Eat In Progreso Yucatan
We have eaten at many restaurants in Progreso over the years. If you are up for it we always suggest to eat where the locals eat – food is good, local and well priced. A night out at a finer restaurant is a welcome treat also.
Here are some of our recommendations.
Breakfast
During our latest visit to Progreso Yucatan we had breakfast at these restaurants. Both served very healthy meals and with great service. Coffee refills always included. The full breakfast we had at La Parrilla included fruit, cottage cheese, eggs, meat, bread and coffee – 140 pesos. Find it at calles 27 (77) and 50.
At EnchillArt we had eggs, meat, bread and coffee – 90 pesos Find it at calle 29(79) and 54.
Several of the restaurants on the Malecon are open for breakfast with slightly higher prices but a better view.
Lunch and Dinner
Our favourite local seafood restaurant is El Toro on calle 25 (75) between calles 60 and 62. This restaurant is run by fishermen so the seafood is always the freshest (from the night before catch). We had a garlic filet with cold beer – delicious. Cost 180 pesos and we shared. A huge plate of ceviche mixto (mixed) was 190 pesos. Their specialty is pescado frito (whole fried fish) at 330 pesos a kilo. They also serve shrimp, lobster, and a couple of chicken and pork dishes. The name comes from the owner’s ranch with cattle. Odd name for a seafood restaurant. We were the only non local people there.
We had a wonderful meal at Sol y Mar – fresh fish and the best margarita in town. No holding back on the tequila. 2 dinners, a margarita and wine 650 pesos. Find it on calle 78 between 23 (73) and 25 (75)
Le Saint Bonnet has been around since 1991 before we began coming to Progreso. We have had sea food here several times over the years and never been disappointed. It is just at the end of the Malecon near the pier on calle 19 (69) between calles 78 and 80.
Eladio’s Restaurant and Bar has been a favourite hangout for us since coming to Progreso. Its parent restaurant is in Merida. With each round of drinks comes a round of botanas – small snacks such as bits of seafood in a sauce, chips and guacamole, small servings of octopus ceviche to name a few. more rounds of drinks – more rounds of botanas. This is common in the Yucatan. Eladio’s is on the beach at the end of calle 80.
We had a wonderful late afternoon lunch at Crabster Seafood and Grill on the Malecon at calle 74. A new restaurant since we’ve lived in Progreso. It met the test of great food and stimulating atmosphere overlooking the beach. The parent restaurant is in Merida. As expected from all of the restaurants along the Malecon prices are a bit heavier than away from the sea – but it’s worth it!
Frida’s Restaurante Bar was another new Progreso restaurant. No time for us to try it but it is on the list for Mexican food next time. Calle 80 at calle 25 (75)
Restaurante Casa del Pastel, built in the late 1940’s, was once referred to as the ‘wedding cake house’ because of its appearance. Now it is a restaurant with that name. They have a daily prix fix from 1:30pm featuring an appetizer, main course and dessert for 495 pesos. It is at the eastern end of the Malecon – you can’t miss it.
Where to Stay in Progreso Yucatan
We have always rented apartments during our stay. They are plentiful except for the summer and holiday seasons. If you choose to stay at a hotel or other commercial establishment here are a few ideas.
Book Your Progreso Accommodation HERE
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